You can probably fix that with a needle file. Expand the B hole toward the G, so when reaming them later the center will be offset a bit that way. And use unslotted pins and slot the bridge. The slots can be used to shimmy the exit points of the strings back and forth as desired, as well as equalizing the break angle of each string over the saddle (if you care about that). As it is, the low E will have way more angle than the others.

As Ken says, the treble wing does look longer than the bass... but that shouldn't cause any problems other than visual.

I've spent my whole career working with products that often need marked for drilling, tapping, screws, rivets etc in precise locations. Here are a couple things I've learned.
1) Use precise instruments when precise locations are warranted (you're using digital calipers. Good start)
2) Use the finest point instrument you can to mark/scribe the center point
3) Use a punch or similar item to enlarge that location to the point your brad point drill bit or whatever you are drilling with doesn't wander. Sometimes this means using a progressively larger punch to keep that mark point exactly in the middle.
4) Use a drill press whenever possible. If not possible, take extreme precaution to make sure you are drilling vertically at all times as a bit that bites into the surrounding material on an angle will often times walk away from your center point.
5) When you find a mistake, stop and fix it now even if that means starting over. Mistakes grow. What is wrong at the beginning of a line by 1/128" will often be off 3" (or insert multiple feet..damhikt) the farther away from the beginning you are. Often trying to repair an "oops" results in an increased frustration level, loss of time and further complications later. Not that they can't be fixed but sometimes it's better to punt.
6) Walk away before fixing or starting over. Figure out why it's wrong and how you can prevent the mistake from happening again. Mistakes happen and some are preventable. Not learning from them is inexcusable.

Hi
..........

The measurements from hole centre to centre are

E-a .430" (10.9mm)
A-d .423" (10.8mm)
D-g .422" (10.7mm)
G-b .438" (11.1mm)
B-a .404" (10.3mm)

......

Cheers

Might be a typo at B-a, but lots of people use alternate tunings..
We know what you meant.
I'd probably go for another one if it's not going to break the bank.
This one could be put to other uses, even if it's nailing it to the wall in front of you at the bench to remind you to check measurements yourself at least 3 times and never trust anyone else's.

Found this on Ken Cierp's site. For those without a drill press he's got a couple unique methods to make sure you drill straight holes that are worth checking out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7yLMN- ... r_embedded

I would suggest one of the simple free drawing programs that print to scale (